Togus VA Medical Center Project Healing Waters Vets Experience Maine’s Fabled Rapid River

July, 2007

Togus, Maine -- Magalloway, Kennebago, Rangeley, Rapid... the names of these legendary rivers of the Western Maine mountains bring a smile to the face of anyone who knows the history of fly fishing these waters for brook trout and landlocked salmon measured in pounds rather than inches; a fishery that, 125 years ago, brought wealthy “sports” by stage coach and steam train to the remote but luxurious sporting camps of Maine’s Rangeley Lakes Region.

At the February, 2007 kick-off meeting for Project Healing Waters at Togus VA Medical Center near Augusta, Maine, after CPT Eivind Forseth made a moving presentation of what Project Healing Waters had meant to him and his fellow “Wounded Warriors” at Walter Reed Army Medical Center, from the back of the room came the booming voice of a barrel-chested man with shoulder-length silver hair, “I’d like to have some o’ you folks up tuh my place on the Rapid Rivah. Yessuh…, I surely would!”

Those of us who fly fish in Maine knew instantly that the speaker was rough and ready Aldro French, Maine Guide and owner/conservator of Forest Lodge, the former home of Maine author Louise Dickinson Rich whose 1942 best-selling book, “We Took to the Woods” described a fulfilling and peaceful way of life in a remote Maine camp not reachable by road that was hard to imagine in the darkest years of the Great Depression and World War II. The Trout Unlimited members attending the kick-off meeting quickly glanced at each other, inhaled deeply, and thought to themselves, “This Project Healing Waters is off and running if we’re taking the vets to the Rapid River with Aldro this summer!”

Maine Guide Aldro French

The Rapid River flows between Lower Richardson Lake in Maine and Lake Umbagog on the Maine/New Hampshire border and truly deserves its name because it drops 155 feet in 5.25 miles with an average pitch of 68 feet per mile of Class III and IV whitewater. About a mile down from the outlet of Lower Richardson Lake, the Rapid forms its own lake, the 512 acre Pond-in-the-River. The river is accessible only by float plane or boat on Lower Richardson Lake or by a trip of approximately 17 miles with high clearance vehicle or mountain bike over a network of logging roads. Because its water comes from deep mountain lakes and is highly oxygenated by its turbulent drop in elevation, the Rapid River grows an abundance of aquatic insects and smelt to feed B-I-G brook trout and landlocked salmon; so big that a 3 pound fish might be considered “average” here. An illegal introduction of smallmouth bass into Lake Umbagog in the 1980s has permitted the migration of that fish into the Rapid River and Pond-in-the-River where they compete with and prey on brook trout. Maine fishing regulations allow fly fishing only on the Rapid River and, with the exception of smallmouth bass, bag limits are strictly regulated.

Rapid River from the porch of Forest Lodge

Looking upstream toward Pond-in-the-River

With all this in mind, both vets and volunteers were faithful in their attendance at Togus Project Healing Waters fly tying and fly casting lessons held twice monthly March through May. In mid-June, Togus VAMC Recreation Therapist Terisa Olson and US Air Force disabled veteran Terry Perry set out in the VA van for a day-trip to scout out Forest Lodge and make final arrangements with Mr. French. Although taken a bit aback by the 17 mile trek over a maze of increasingly rough logging roads, ending with 2 miles of what Mainers euphemistically call a “tote road” (meaning you tote your vehicle), they were amazed at the beauty and wildness of the place and with the exciting plans for a trip July 8 through 10. Aldro French generously made his camp staff available for cooking and guiding and would provide accommodations and boats for all vets and volunteer helpers. Togus VAMC would provide food including a turkey of at least 18 pounds which, Aldro advised, was necessary to satisfy a secret tradition at Forest Lodge.

Because of the fact that there is no electrical service at Forest Lodge, the rough character of the woods and waters, and the remote access in case of medical need, five of our twelve veterans were cleared medically for the trip: Marc Blodeau, Terry Perry, Joe Baker, Charlie Swem, and George Draper. Volunteers from Kennebec Valley Chapter of Trout Unlimited were Greg Ponte, Alan Gregory, Jim Thibodeau, Sue Firlotte, along with John Files of Sebago Chapter of Maine Trout Unlimited. Bringing up the rear where Dave Hedrick, KVCTU Volunteer Coordinator, and Terisa Olson, Togus Recreation Therapist. We were joined later by Dick Walthers from Mollyocket Chapter of Trout Unlimited who is a Registered Maine Guide on the Rapid River.

A 10 am departure from Togus brought our convoy to the gated tote road to Forest Lodge, the “Carry Road” of Ms. Rich’s book, at about 2 pm and we were met by Forest Lodge staff who led us the remaining two and a half miles. We were greeted warmly by Aldro French who showed the three women in the party to their quarters in the “Winter House”, the male vets to the “Guides Camp” and the TU volunteers to their rooms upstairs above the living room of “Forest Lodge”. Aldro showed us the many artifacts left by Louise Dickinson Rich when she moved back to Massachusetts after the sudden death of her husband Ralph. Because of the way of life and the values portrayed by her published accounts of her years living and raising her children on the Rapid River, Aldro French is working hard to preserve these remembrances of Louise Dickinson Rich and the buildings and grounds of Forest Lodge through the Forest Lodge Foundation which he created.

Through the efforts of Project Healing Waters, the Orvis Company, and the Togus VAMC Adaptive Sports Program, each of the 5 vets had had purchased for them an appropriate Orvis rod and reel outfit and Orvis breathable waders and wading boots. No time was wasted getting settled in. We found our rods and gear and got ready to pair up with a guide or helper and go for one of those big fish!

John Files (back to camera) helps vet George Draper put his Rod together while vets Charlie Swem and Joe Baker wait With Teri Olson, RT, for their guide to come with a boat to take them out on Pond-in-the-River.

By sunset we had worked up an appetite for the big pan of lasagna and fresh baked garlic bread baking in the woodstove of the Forest Lodge kitchen and a beaming Charlie Swem, who is visually impaired, reported that he was the first to land a fish. (We think Charlie must use some illegal substance on his flies as he seldom does not catch a fish.)

Left to right: Rapid River Fly-fishing guide Dick Connolly, Vet Charlie Swem, two and a half pound Rapid River Landlocked Salmon (in net).

Next morning came cool and damp from an overnight shower that did not raise or muddy the river. A quick breakfast of eggs, toast, bacon, and coffee and we were off again with our fishing partners to try by boat or wading the Middle Dam tail water, Pond-in-the-River, Lower Dam pool, Long Pool, Smooth Ledge Pool, and Cold Spring Pool.

Cool morning air lifts steam off of Long Pool on the Rapid River

This day no one gets skunked …

US Air Force vet Terry Perry and KVCTU volunteer Greg Ponte withTerry’s first Rapid River landlocked salmon. Terry seems pleased, doesn’t she?.

 

Vet George Draper has a big fish on while Maine Guide Jim Thibodeau of KVCTU is ready with the net.

Well George, a smallmouth bass is considered a game fish in some circles. This one came from and illegal introduction and threatens the remarkable native brook trout fishery of this river. He’s a keeper.

Vet Marc Bilodeau watches his fly drift down a current seam during a brown caddis hatch.

A wild Maine brook trout in a catch-and-release net. Back in he goes to spawn this Fall.

Meanwhile, we have an 18 pound turkey and some secret Forest Lodge tradition. After sizing up some of the vets and volunteers, host Aldro French decided the turkey we brought might not be big enough and dove into his propane powered freezer to find a 23 pound turkey he had set aside for just such and eventuality. Out it came and into the smoker it went, early in the morning and without fanfare. It seems that if you are a guest at Forest Lodge – or, for that matter, no matter who you are and what you may be doing walking down the “Carry Road” past his place – if you are anywhere within sight of Aldro at mealtime, you sit down and eat. The other part of the tradition is that one of your meals, if you stay overnight, will be a turkey smoked only as Aldro knows how. It may look like it’s already turned to charcoal to you but it’s not done until Aldro says so 10 hours later. And he gets it right every time. It was delicious.

The secret is out. Aldro and an environmental studies summer intern working at Forest Lodge carefully remove the finished turkey from the smoker.

Then of course there’s the hot tub out on the terrace overlooking the roaring river…

KVCTU’s Sue Firlotte and vet George Draper talk about fishing while trying out the hot tub after a sumptuous smoked turkey dinner.

Our last day had early risers scrambling down to the river for a last go at the consistently good fishing. Once our gear was packed we gathered for a farewell luncheon of baked, fresh tarragon herb stuffed landlocked salmon. Many were caught by the vets but one donated by Mike the dam keeper at Middle Dam who heard about the vets at Aldro’s and just though he’d drive two miles down the Carry Road and make us a gift of a 3 pound fresh caught fish.

 

Last day in camp. Volunteer Alan Gregory and vets Charlie Swem, Joe Brown, and Terry Perry reflect on the beauty of this spot.

After the great lunch we took a minute for a group photo on the porch of Winter House. 14 digital cameras came out. Everyone wanted a picture.

 

Aldro and Audrey the Lab on the left, Claude the cook and Mike the dam keeper at center, and a bunch of well fed, happy campers about to leave for home.

At our departure, the expressions of gratitude went both ways, from Aldro and his camp staff to the vets for their service and sacrifice and from the vets and volunteers to Aldro French for making this once-in-a-lifetime fly fishing experience in a setting of historic significance available to us.

For more information about Forest Lodge, the Forest Lodge Foundation, and fly fishing on Maine’s Rapid River see http://www.rapidriverflyfishing.com/

Dave Hedrick